Category Archives: Everything Else

Everything Else

Book Review: Fitting Finesse

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Some Chapter Headings:
Fitting Facts
Shortcuts and Specialized Fitting
Pants Fitting Finesse
Fine-tuning the Fit

I Liked:

  • That she starts with the most important part: “Choosing the Right Pattern Size”
  • This handy little tip: “The measurement I recommend using to determine which pattern size fits your shoulders is the front width measurement. You won’t find the front width measurement printed on the back of the pattern envelope, but it’s quick to take and does not change even if you gain or lose weight. ” (page 8) She goes on to say that a FWM of 14″ = size 14 and 13.5″ = size 12 and 14.5″ = 16, etc…
  • The “Pivot and Slide” method of altering a paper pattern. This was new to me and I haven’t completely wrapped my mind around it, but it makes a lot of sense.
  • Great measurement tables, including those to help you determine how much to adjust a pattern.
  • The Checking for Wrinkles portion. This is the most concise information I’ve found: horizontal fold wrinkles = too long; vertical fold wrinkles = too wide; horizontal pull wrinkles = need more width; vertical pull wrinkles = need more length.
My Dislikes:
  • She has a section on body silhouettes, but I think they are incomplete. For example, she tells you how to dress for a short-waisted body, but she doesn’t actually tell you how to figure out if you are short-waisted.
Conclusion:
Wow! What a book! I only wish I had time to actually work on a project while I had the book. I think the “Pivot and Slide” method would have made a lot more sense if I had actually been able to use it. I picked up 2 really great tips (see above), and those alone made this book worth my time.

Would I buy this book for myself?

I’m thinking about it. Wonder if it’s online…

Would I buy this book for a beginner?

Beginner sewer? Probably not. Beginner to fitting? Absolutely!
Being Creative, Everything Else

5 Cool Sewing Tips

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Here are my 5 favorite sewing tips (for today anyway, because tomorrow I’ll probably learn something new):

  1. Wet the back of your needle before trying to thread it. The surface tension from the water pulls the thread right on through.

  2. Compare your pattern pieces to a RTW piece that has a similar fit. This is particularly helpful if you’re fitting a difficult client (like my hubby).

  3. Instead of chalk, mark your notches, darts, etc. with a dried-up remnemt of Ivory soap.

  4. Put a shirt together at one shoulder (or if it has raglan sleeves–at 3 seams). While it’s flat, serge your neck binding (or cuffs onto sleeves) on the neck line. (I find it easiest to place if I’ve notched center front, shoulders and center back on both the shirt and the ribbing.) Then serge the remaining shoulder seam, all the way up the ribbing.

  5. Choose your pattern size based on your front width measurement (FWM). This is a great N. Zieman tip. To take the measurement, find the crease in your skin where your arms meet your body and measure straight acros your chest. Round off to the nearest half-inch. A FWM of 14 inches corresponds to a size 14 and every 1/2 inch difference is a pattern size. (I.e., 13.5 inches = size 12, 13 inches = size 10, 14.5 inches = size 16, 15 inches = size 18)

So, those are mine. What are yours (and no, Jane, “If you can’t find it, just call Salinda and she’ll make it.” doesn’t actually count as a tip. 🙂 )