Well, PR’s mini-wardrobe contest is over and I’ve finished it. Time for a new sewing plan: Tim Gunn’s 10 Essentials.

A number of sewers are working on a similar project right now, and quite frankly, it just makes sense. I have the fabrics to create these pieces, so why not go for it. Here’s his list and my takes on it. You’ll notice, I’ve some of the pieces already!

1. Basic Black Dress -I just finished 1 in my big wardrobe and a very dark chocolate brown (which I love more than black) in my mini-wardrobe.
2. Trench Coat – This one has been cut and ready to sew for 3 years now. Maybe it’s time to finish this UFO!
3. Classic Dress Pants – My goal for the summer is the perfect fitting pair of trousers. I haven’t decided which piece to use from my stash: the navy, the brown tweed, the brown plaid, the black…
4. White Shirt – I think I look better in ivory. And, I’ve just finished one button up and one pull-over in ivory. That’s done. Check.
5. Jeans – Well, I’ve mastered the jean skirt, so how hard can a pair of jeans be…
6. Cashmere Sweater – I’m buying this one! It’ll be my treat to me when I finish the other 9 pieces! I’m think V-neck and maybe royal blue or orange. Something striking.
7. Skirt – A-line, I think, and maybe in a dark grey or brown suede or a cute plaid?
8. Day Dress – I just bought a shirt dress (Vogue 8021) and I have got a beautiful pink cotton that is screaming to be a summer dress. I think I will take out the front and back pleats and just gather the skirt.
9. Blazer – Would my mini-wardrobe jacket count?
10. Sweat Suit Alternative – Can I just remind you how much I love my TNT pants pattern? I think my new khaki pants from the mini-wardrobe count here. Oh, and then there are the black pants and the jean skirt from the big wardrobe contest. I think we can count this done.

Bonus: 1 trendy item. Hum? Gotta think on this one.

I post a storyboard of sorts later. Let me know what you think…

Some Chapter Headings:

• Sewing equipment and fabrics
• Neckline finishes and collars
• Fastenings
• Tailoring

I liked:

• The format! It is very easy to open this book to the contents and quickly identify the chapter I need.
• The great fitting section. There were lots of photos showing how and where to measure for 16 useful measurements.
• The great diagrams showing fit alternations on pattern tissue.
• The diagrams showing common “wrinkles” and how to adjust fit for each.
• 14 pages of hand stitches!

My dislikes:

• Only one-The extensive list and descriptions of fabric has pictures, but they aren’t complete or labeled.

Conclusion:

I refer to this book at least once a month. It has more information than I could ever list. In fact, it would be easier to list what’s not included than to tell you everything that is! So far, every time I’ve need information, I’ve found it here! I use the fitting chapters more than anything else!

This book has 20 projects throughout that use the techniques covered in each chapter. It also has a quilting chapter, but you should note that it consists of only 2 projects and no additional diagrams or explanations. The book also contains a 4 page glossary.

Would I buy it for myself? It’s the most used book on my shelf!
Would I buy it for a beginner sewer? Absolutely.

****note:  I’m in the Amazon Affiliate Program.  I will be monetarily compensated if you purchase through the link above.    That said, I do truly love this book and my recommendation has nothing to do with this affiliate program.

Well, I’ve done it! I’m finished. And just in the nick of time. Top 10 things I learned (or was reminded of that I already knew):

1. I made my lining as my muslin.
2. I altered my pattern pieces.
3. I made up the lining/muslin bodice according to my newly altered patterns. I also used the skirt pieces and basted the skirt onto my lining/muslin, just to be sure.
4. I found that my armholes gaped and that the waist was indeed too long.



5. Folded out an inch of length just above the waist. You can see this in the image to the left.
6. I made a sloped shoulder adjustment per page 48 in my book.
7. This fit nicely, so I took the whole thing apart, adjusted my tissue pattern again, and cut my garment.
8. I put the garment together following the instructions, which I found quite easy to follow.
9. I ventured from the instructions in step number 13 where it appears they treated the lining and garment as one during the installation process. This gave me very poor results, so I ripped it out and inserted the zipper into the garment only. Then I folded under the lining and tacked it in place. Just FYI, I have been using the lapped zipper technique published in the December 2007/January 2008 Threads magazine with great success. (Upper left image.)
10. I finished the garment as instructed.
11. I added bra strap carriers in the same ribbon used throughout my mini-wardrobe pieces.

Simplicity 3631 also had a fun jacket:

For this jacket, I made it straight by the pattern. The only exceptions:

1. I did my darts on the inside. A little less fussy that way.

2. I wasn’t happy with my button holes, so I hid them in ribbon. I took lots of good pictures of this, so look for a tutorial posted during the next week. Here is the ribbon I used. I also used it as an accent throughout my wardrobe.

Here’s another shot of that jacket.

McCalls 5426 Princess Seam Top

You’ll have to excuse my photographic assistant in the bottom of this picture. Rex couldn’t stay out of the way!

This is a McCall’s “Made for You” pattern that includes different pattern pieces for AB/C/D cup sizes. I made view C and I did not have to make a FBA. I did shorten the length as usual. I followed the instructions without problems, but I wouldn’t recommend this pattern to a beginner because it lacks the friendly little reminders to clip curves, press seams etc. I would also note that the construction order is strange to me, but I followed it and it worked out fine. There is a LOT of topstitching in the pattern.

BTW, I used a Kona Cotton. It will wrinkle a little, but when I first washed the piece, it came out of the dryer quite nice, so I’m hoping…

Here’s another image of the shirt under my jumper.

Hot Patterns Sugar Babe Set pants! (These are seen in 2 of the images above.)

You already know I love these pants. I now have 4 pair! My only complaint–they don’t have a pocket! So, I added one!

I traced my hand so I would know about how wide I needed it to be.

I drew a slanted tear drop around my hand.

I added 5/8 inch seam allowances around it.

I taped the pocket to my pattern tissue, matching the side seam lines and cut out my pants. (You should note that this took about an extra 1/2 yard and had much wasted fabric.)

I stitched a piece of ribbon along the seam allowances on the front of each pocket for support. (At this point I referred to a handy sewing guide. Look for a review of the Reader’s Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing coming soon.)

I basted the pocket opening closed along the seam allowance.

I stitched the pants leg together from the hem up to the waist, following the curve of the pocket.

I clipped the corners at the pockets and finished the raw edges. I removed the basting and “bingo!” I’ve got pockets!