Here is a quick diagram and some fabric terms and vocabulary for anyone in my beginning sewing class.
If you are already in my free beginning sewing class, I hope it’s going well. If you aren’t, you can find us here. I’d love to have you join us!
Ready to make a skirt that fits you beautifully? Let’s get started. You’ll need your measurements, some freezer paper or tissue paper, and a ruler. A dressmakers’ curve would also be helpful, but it’s not totally necessary.
Here’s my sloper. I use two pieces of freezer paper taped together for the width.
So here’s how you do it:
1. Draw a rectangle. The rectangle should be as long as your waist to hem measurement and as wide as 1/2 your widest width.
2. Draw a line from top to bottom down the center of your rectangle. Draw a second line across your rectangle at your hip measure. This line should be down from the top the distance of your waist to hip measurement.
3. Now we are going to start drawing the waist. Divide your waist measurement by 4. Add 1 5/8 inch to this measurement. Make a mark that distance from the LEFT edge along the top. Draw a small line up 5/8 inch up from there. Now, add 7/8 inch to 1/4 your waist measure. Make a mark that distance from the RIGHT edge along the top. Draw another small line up 5/8 inch from that point.
4. Now we need to create our waist curve using these new lines. Draw a curving line from the center of each narrow rectangle to connect with the top of the small line you drew up from the waist line. A dressmaker’s curve will help, but if you don’t have one, just do your best.
5. Time to connect your waist to your hips. Your waist to hip line may have more curve than mine. That’s fine if it does. That’s why we are making our own personal skirt pattern. To do this, draw a slightly curved line from the top of your waistline to your hip point (where your hip line intersects your midline). Mine is almost straight because my waist is not a whole lot smaller than my hips. Yours may be.
6. Time to draw the darts. The darts are how this flat piece will fit our curves. Let’s work on the darts on the left first. Divide your waist measurement by 12. Measure in this distance from the left edge. Draw a line 5.5 inches down from this point. For the second back dart, divide your waist measurement by 6. Draw a line 5 inches down from this point. Now for the front darts. Draw a line 4 inches down, 4 inches from the right edge.
7. Now to make these lines into darts, just draw triangles. The base of each triangle is 5/8 inch wide and is centered over your dart line. The base is along your waistline and the point of the triangle should touch the bottom of your dart line. 
8. Almost done! Label your sloper. Here are the labels I use.
So…how’d you do?
Here’s your assignment for next time:
1. Cut out your sloper. Don’t forget to cut down that center line, separating your front and back pieces.
2. Trace both pieces of your sloper onto another sheet and add 1 inch around each piece. Be sure to trace your darts too.
3. Grab some fabric to make a muslin (a practice skirt). You can raid your stash or grab something from the remnant bin at your favorite shop. You’ll need 1 1/2-2 yards (basically, 2 x your waist to hip measure).
I’ve made a lot of ruffle pants lately. A lot. I have two tricks that make these sweet pants come together quickly with a professional finish. Here’s the first trick:
That’s a hemming foot. It’s one of my favorite presser feet for my sewing machine. Your machine may have come with one. If not, you can find one pretty easily at Hancock’s or JoAnn’s or your local sewing machine center or here.
Confession time: I’ve had a hemming foot for years. I didn’t start using it until about 2 years ago. Why? Well, it had a little learning curve. Please don’t let that stop you. Get out your presser foot and let’s start sewing.
Here’s what you need to know:
So that’s it. Do you have a hemming foot? What size is yours? I have a 4mm and a 6mm. Get it out, put it on the machine and try it out on a few strips of scrap fabric. I’d love to see your hems. You can share pictures with me on Facebook or Instagram,
With the house on the market, I needed a quick update in the living room. This would never do:
But this would:
(These colors make me smile.)
These pillow covers only cost about $15 dollars and took about an hour to make. They are stitched with a basic straight seam, so if you can thread your machine, you can make these.
Here is the project:
Experience Level: Beginner
1. Measure your pillow. You’ll need to know the length and width.
2. Do a little math. This pillow measured 11 x 15 inches.
3. Hem one long edge of each of the back pillow pieces.
4. Stack your fabric like this:
5. Stitch all the way around the pillow with 1/4 inch seam allowances.
6. Trim the corners, turn your case right side out, and press it well.
7. Slip it on your pillow.
A few notes: –This envelope pillow will work for any rectangular/square pillow. Just measure your pillow and do the same math you did above.
–If you are worried about the back overlap gaping, you can add more than 3 1/2 inches to each back piece, or just attach a small piece of Velcro to either side!
–Embellish away! I try to remember to embellish the front before I put my pillows together. You can paint, piece, add ribbon or ric rac, anything you want, just as long as the front finished pieces measures 1/2 inch long and 1/2 inch wider than your pillow.
****This tutorial first appeared in December 2011.
This is my second installment in my serger series. Today, it’s all about thread and needles! (You can find information about threading your serger here.)
Let’s talk needles first. Your serger manual will list the type of needles required for your machine. My simple Janome Juno 3434d
Now for threads. Your serger will need 4 spools of thread. That’s a lot, but there is good new. In most pieces, you’ll only see the left needle thread. That means that the other three threads don’t have to match, only blend. I have found that I really only need a few colors for all my projects: dark grey, red, royal blue, white, and khaki.
I will sometimes use Woolly Nylon
Load up your machine with some thread and give it a go. Which do you prefer? Serger thread on all or the Woolly Nylon? If you’re having trouble making an even, balanced stitch, no worries! We’ll talk tension next week.
A serger is a wonderfully helpful, time-saving machine—if you aren’t afraid to use it! Over the next few Tuesdays, I hope to share a few serger tidbits that can take the intimidation out of this sewing room essential.
So who needs a serger? We’ll anyone who sews on a regular basis. I’m not talking about your friend who only uses her sewing machine every other Spring to hem pants. I’m talking about you—the hobby seamstress who loves making pillows and napkins and curtains and clothes. I’m talking about the hobby seamstress who wants to take her hand-made gifts to the next level.
Why do you need a serger? Well, for starters, a serger allows you to complete your sewn pieces with a professional finish. A 4-thread serger can also stitch and overlock the edges at the same time, saving you some time. A serger stitches so much more quickly than your sewing machine.
So…you already have a serger? Great. Go get it out of the box and set it up. Does it look kinda like this?
My machine is a Janome Juno 3434d. It’s on the less expensive end of the serger spectrum. It doesn’t chainstitch or coverstitch. It also doesn’t have the air-threading that the Babylocks have. It does have all metal parts and can gather, blind hem, flatlock, and, of course, do a fabulous overcast. This little machine, in my opinion, is perfect for the home seamstress.
There are a few parts you need to know on your machine. I’ve labeled them below.
To use a serger, you just place your fabric under your presser foot and sew:
One major difference is that the knife trims off excess seam allowance before the stitches are made. You’ll want to avoid using pins for this very reason.
There are two ways to thread a serger, if you don’t have one of the fancy air-threading machines: from scratch or tying off.
To thread from scratch, follow the instructions in your manual. The diagrams are probably also on your machine. You MUST start by threading the upper looper and then the lower looper. Then you can thread the right needle and then the left needle. I’m not going to lie. This method can be a bit more tedious, but it is possible. A pair of tweezers will make the job easier.
If your machine is already threaded, tying off is the easiest way to go. To tie off:
1. Clip the needle threads just above the eye of the needle.
2. Hold the existing chain and sew until the chain consists of only 2 threads. (These are remaining threads your looper threads.)
3. Cut the looper threads near the thread spools. Replace the spools with your new threads. Tie threads from your new spools to the existing threads with overhand knots.
4. Turn your looper threads tension dials to 0. (Write down the original setting so you can go back to it.)
5. Gently pull the upper looper thread behind and to the left of the needle until the knot is behind the needle. Repeat for the lower looper thread.
6. Replace the two thread spools for the needle threads and rethread the needles.
7. Return your tension dials to the original settings. Hold all the threads together behind the machine and sew pulling the thread chain.
Well, how’d you do? Is your machine threaded? Great. Next week, I’ll talk about threads and needles and such.
Week 1: The parts of your machine and how to thread it
Week 2: Selecting needles and threads for your project
Week 3: Balancing the tension on your machine
Week 4: A serged pillowcase
Week 5: Hemming with your serger
Week 6: Gathers and elastics
Week 7: A ruffled pillowcase
